The Only Watch Moritz Grossmann

The independent Glashütte manufactory Moritz Grossmann brings a piece of history to the ninth Only Watch benefit auction with a superbly crafted, unique timepiece. The auction takes place on 6 November 2021 in Geneva. 

Under the patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, Only Watch auctions exclusive one-of-a-kind watches from prestigious manufacturers every two years in aid of the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies. The proceeds will be used to treat children suffering from muscular dystrophy and to advance research into the hereditary neuromuscular disease, which is currently considered incurable. Moritz Grossmann is supporting the non-profit association for the third time and has again crafted a truly unique example of Glashütte watchmaking.

The dial adds to the undeniably elegant appeal of this unique piece of jewellery. It boasts a silver-plated by friction technique painstakingly finished by hand, a traditional art that ensures the time display can be read easily at all times and perfectly complements the distinctive appearance. Another splendid statement comes in the form of a solid gold balance cock, elegantly catching the eye in the highly finished movement.

Silver-plating by friction – a traditional and rare finishing practice with unparalleled radiance

Only a handful of skilled artisans still master the sophisticated art of silver plating by friction today. And is what makes dials with this surface finish so extraordinarily unique. This traditional finishing technique from the 19th century was used by the gifted Glashütte watchmaking pioneer Moritz Grossmann during his lifetime for example in his high-quality pendulum watches.

The dial of the ONLY WATCH MORITZ GROSSMANN in Glashütte has been friction silver-plated by master craftsmen and brought into the modern era in honour of the Only Watch 2021. Embellished with large Roman numerals, the dial of this unique timepiece also bears the original ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875. Manually crafted lance-shaped hands in an annealed brown-violet hue are a nod to traditions of the past.

Silver-plating by friction is an exceptionally intricate form of finishing the dial, which creates a fine-grained yet velvety surface. It reflects the incident light without dazzling, ensuring that every minute detail of the dial can be read with ease.

This craft may well be almost two hundred years old, but the process has remained the same. A whitish powder consisting of silver granules, salt and tartar, is rubbed onto a previously roughened and meticulously cleaned and degreased brass sheet using a little water and a small brush. All the engravings are filled with lacquer beforehand, then fired in a kiln to avoid excessive silver build-up.

The surface is sanded to roughen it, which also removes any excess lacquer, so that only a deep black inlay remains in the engraved areas. As the silver powder does not adhere to the lacquer, the engravings and numerals are left out of the silver plating process, which means they retain their deep black colour and create an optimal contrast to the bright silver background. The dial is finished with a protective coating to protect the high-quality silver-plating by friction from oxidation and other environmental influences in the decades and centuries to come.

The calibre 100.1 with hand-engraved solid gold balance cock

As with all timepieces from the house of Moritz Grossmann, the distinctive outer appearance reflects the superb mechanical workmanship that ensures precision on the inside. The ONLY WATCH MORITZ GROSSMANN is powered by the calibre 100.1, visible in all its beauty through a sapphire crystal back. The Grossmann balance appears in the curved plate cut-out and is borne by the cantilevered balance cock with fine micrometer screw.

To do proper justice to the special occasion, the balance cock is made of solid gold. True to the finest Glashütte tradition, the piece is decorated with tiny floral motifs executed by master craftsmen.

The hand-wound movement gleams in the manufactory’s luxurious High Artistic finish. The 2/3 plate is accentuated by the typical broad, horizontal Glashütte ribbing. Raised gold chatons and pan-head chaton screws are a testament to the high quality and underline the filigree architecture of the movement. Fascinating reflections of light are created by the extraordinary depth of the contours and is the result of chamfers on drive wheels and edges of levers polished by master hands.

Auction via Christie’s auction house on 6 November in Geneva

Collectors and enthusiasts can admire the special charisma of the ONLY WATCH MORITZ GROSSMANN in person before the auction. From 22 September to 6 November 2021, Grossmann’s unique piece will be presented in international metropolises as part of the Only Watch World Tour. The Monaco Yacht Show marks the beginning of the event and takes place in the Principality of Monaco from 22 to 25 September. The tour then moves on to several destinations. The auction takes place on 6 November 2021 at the Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues under the hammer of the prestigious auction house Christie’s.

Technical specifications:

Only Watch Moritz Grossmann

Unique piece for Only Watch 2021

Case

• Material: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 41 mm
• Thickness: 11.35 mm
• Glass/caseback: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
• Water-resistant to 30 meters

Dial and hands

• Dial: Silver-plated by friction, engraved numerals, with black finish
• Hands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

Movement

• Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
• Diameter: 36.4 mm
• Height: 5.0 mm
• Balance Cock: Cantilevered balance cock in solid gold 750/000
• Escapement: Lever escapement
• Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80
• Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
• Balance Diameter: 14.2 mm
• Number of parts: 198
• Number of jewels: 20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
• Frequency: 18,000 vph
• Power reserve of 42 hours

Functions/Indications

• Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second
• Grossmann manual winder with pusher

Strap and buckle

• Hand-stitched kudu leather strap with prong buckle in stainless steel

MSRP: Up for auction

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