Czapek & Cie. Quai des Bergues No.17 Double Soleil - Deep Blue & Tuxedo Black

Czapek introduces its seminal Quai des Bergues model in a 40.5mm steel case, with a newly developed hand-guilloche pattern on the dial.

One size never truly fits all - and with this in mind, Czapek presents its Quai des Bergues model in a new, 40.5 mm case. The steel case retains all of the stylistic signatures of the Quai des Bergues case - with a slight refinement of the case-side recesses in order to incorporate the movement (Calibre SXH1) - and subtle change to the slope of the lugs to ensure a perfect fit on the wrist. 

"The two existing sizes of the Quai des Bergues have always been well received," says Czapek CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. "But, among our community of enthusiasts, we've had many comments and discussions about creating a perfect "Goldilocks" size in between - one that is adaptable and elegant, looks both dressy and sporty and has a great presence on wrists of all sizes. The design of the case is very organic and fluid - and for all that, I pay tribute to the biomechanical style of the artist H.R.Giger [design of Alien] whose work has always fascinated me."

To complement the new case size, Czapek, together with its dial-making partner Metalem, has developed an entirely new guilloche pattern. They have name it Guilloché 'Double Soleil', after the parhelion phenomenon, an optical illusion that appears under certain atmospheric conditions as a luminous spot on one or both sides of the sun. Also known colloquially as 'sun dogs', parhelia occur when the sun shines through thin cirrus clouds composed of hexagonal ice crystals, which refract the rays, rather like the effect of a prism. This spectacular and rare phenomenon most often occurs in winter, when the sun is low in the sky. 

The starting point for the new pattern was a discussion about the Maison's proprietary Ricochet Guilloché. Through a process of iteration, with greater emphasis on vertical symmetry and straighter, deeper cuts, the new Double Soleil pattern achieves a bolder and more contemporary look. 

And it plays an intriguing visual trick: are the lines radiating outwards like sunrays from behind the sub-dials or are they being drawn inwards? The dial is offered in a choice of Deep Blue, Tuxedo Black or simply 'Secret Alloy' the colour of the precious metal used for the guilloche dial. 

In addition to the new guillochage, the movement (manually wound, with a 7-day power reserve) has been refreshed "Like the new dial guillochage, this is very much in keeping with our desire always to display the beauty of craftsmanship - to honour the hand of man - which is the essence of haute horlogerie and reveals more than time."

The reworked calibre differs from its predecessor in other ways, too. The original balance had a classic rack and index for regulation, for example. The new SXH1, on the other hand, has an annular balance wheel with weights for variable inertia and a Breguet terminal curve balance spring. The balance cock has also been finely skeletonised and streamlined to give the whole balance greater transparency.

The finishing has also been developed further. All the edges of this outstanding movement have been softened by deeper chamfering. And on the advice of one of the best independent watchmakers and friend, the regular jewels were replaced with “mi-glace” rubies. These have a rounded relief that improves lubrication on the point of contact with the axes. They also give the movement a more fluid look and can, occasionally, catch incoming rays of light.

Technical specifications

Czapek & Cie. Quai des Bergues No.17 - Double Soleil - Deep Blue

Case

• Material: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 40.5mm
• Thickness: 11.9mm (9.5mm perceived) 
• Lug-to-lug(north to south): 47.67mm
• Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
• Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
• Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

• Deep Blue 'Secret in alloy' dial 
• Unique and exclusive Czapek guilloche 'Double Soleil'design inspired by the 1930's Art Deco era
• Czapek elongated indexes
• Rhodium plated arrow steel hands

Movement

• Calibre SXH1: Haute Horlogerie proprietary mechanical hand-wound movement
• Diameter: 32 mm – 14 lines 1⁄4
• Height: 4.75 mm
• Variable inertia balance wheel
• “Breguet” terminal coil
• Frequency: 21' 600 vph (3 Hz)
• Number of components: 160
• Number of jewels: 31
• Power-reserve: 168 hours (7 days) on two barrelsprings

Finishing

• Partially open worked bridges on gear train
• Double open ratchets, sandblasted bridges and main plate
• Heat-blued screws, bevelling, final handchamfering, circular graining and snailing on wheels

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes & seconds
• Small second at 7h30
• Power reserve indication with weekdays at 4h30

Strap and buckle

• Alligator strap with stainless steel pin buckle

MSRP

• CHF 18'800 (excl. taxes)

Technical specifications

Czapek & Cie. Quai des Bergues No.17 - Double Soleil - Tuxedo Black

Case

• Material: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 40.5mm
• Thickness: 11.9mm (9.5mm perceived) 
• Lug-to-lug(north to south): 47.67mm
• Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
• Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
• Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

• Tuxedo Black 'Secret in alloy' dial 
• Unique and exclusive Czapek guilloche 'Double Soleil'design inspired by the 1930's Art Deco era
• Czapek elongated indexes
• Rhodium plated arrow steel hands

Movement

• Calibre SXH1: Haute Horlogerie proprietary mechanical hand-wound movement
• Diameter: 32 mm – 14 lines 1⁄4
• Height: 4.75 mm
• Variable inertia balance wheel
• “Breguet” terminal coil
• Frequency: 21' 600 vph (3 Hz)
• Number of components: 160
• Number of jewels: 31
• Power-reserve: 168 hours (7 days) on two barrelsprings

Finishing

• Partially open worked bridges on gear train
• Double open ratchets, sandblasted bridges and main plate
• Heat-blued screws, bevelling, final handchamfering, circular graining and snailing on wheels

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes & seconds
• Small second at 7h30
• Power reserve indication with weekdays at 4h30

Strap and buckle

• Alligator strap with stainless steel pin buckle

MSRP

• CHF 18'800 (excl. taxes)

For more information, please visit czapek.com