Charles Zuber Perfos Karl

Charles Zuber presents an aerial and contrasting creation, of very high quality: the Perfos Karl. A skeletonization realized in collaboration with the Genevan guardian of traditional material work, Cédric Johner.

The Geneva-based brand makes its debut in November 2022 with a first watch creation designed by the famous designer Eric Giroud: the Perfos, a seductively shaped watch with a subtly vintage look.

Charles Zuber is raising the bar with yet another marvel for the Ali Baba’s cave of Watches & Wonders: a Perfos watch bathed in light, entirely hand-skeletonised by one of Geneva’s last watchmaking craftsmen to practice his art in the traditional way: Cédric Johner. The components of the 01 calibre, an exclusive Manufacture micro-rotor movement developed in-house, now illuminated from the front and the bottom, have been nibbled to give an extra touch of light to this watch whose name itself means “through the light” in Greek.

The quest for excellence at Charles Zuber is a state of mind, a quest and a dynamic that drives every stage: from design to finishing. In its wake, the brand has called on the greatest: Eric Giroud for the case, and now Cédric Johner for the skeletonised version of the movement.

Barely five months after its international launch, fuelled by obsessive creativity and a passion for precious and rare watchmaking craftsmanship, the Charles Zuber brand is already presenting a new creation at Watches & Wonders Geneva. It is with this dynamic in mind that Charles Zuber’s Perfos watch has been transformed, stripped bare and opened up: the Perfos KARL is born!

Alchemist of colour and transparency

True to the spirit of the brand, this exclusive edition is limited to 8 pieces of 39mm in 18-carat pink gold - all unique. Each watch is full of emotion and characterised by the uniqueness of its finishes.

Set with 84 saffron orange baguette-cut sapphires, totalling 2.42 carats, each movement has been entirely transformed by hand. This watch, with its meticulously chosen openwork, is pierced by emptiness and bathed in sunlight thanks to the warm-coloured precious stones. Sandwiched between two sapphire crystals, like two wide-open windows on the transformation of the 01 calibre, one can glimpse the mechanical anatomy that has been revealed under the bold and expert hands of Cédric Johner: the gear train is visible, one can make out a ballet of chamfered, satin-finished and polished-angled components. Mechanical, with automatic winding by means of a bidirectional oscillating micromass in platinum set with 39 brilliant-cut orange sapphires totalling 0.1 carats, this three-hand calibre, initially made with 164 components and 33 jewels, naturally lent itself to future developments, such as skeletonisation. Several components have been modified and opened up, notably the plate, bridges and wheels of the gear train.

The design of the Perfos KARL is resolutely contemporary and perfectly suited to lovers of style, strong design codes and extraordinary watchmaking expertise. Its dial, with its intensely metallic hue thanks to a galvanic deposit of satin-finished, hand-sunlit ruthenium, reveals the inner workings of the watch with breathtaking brilliance. The dial is surrounded at its centre by a halo of 36 baguette-cut orange sapphires (0.8 carats) placed in the round as a focal point, contrasting with the rose gold hands. The shiny black alligator strap is hand-finished.

On the front of the watch, another tour de force: on a sapphire crystal serving as the watch’s dial, 60 small coloured triangular pink gold appliques corresponding to the 60 minutes of the passing hour are placed, spaced in an arc like a sun. Machined one by one and assembled by hand, they give the impression of levitating above the movement.

A signature watch, a tribute to “Karl”

Born on 29 January 1932 in Kriens in the canton of Lucerne in Switzerland, Zuber’s first name was Karl (Charles in German).

It was only later, in 1952, after his return from the army, that Karl Zuber decided to become a goldsmith and moved from his home town to Geneva, whose reputation for the jewellery arts extended far beyond the city’s borders. He quickly obtained the title of Swiss Master Jeweller and devoted himself to his passion. He got his first job with Weber, the most talented jeweller in Geneva at the time.

He learns French because he wants to integrate as quickly as possible and decides to give a French tone to his first name: Karl Zuber becomes Charles Zuber.

With its latest creation, stamped “KARL”, the Charles Zuber company celebrates its iconic designer. The starting point of this beautiful initiative? To reveal the quintessential values of the eponymous brand carried by its creator. To pay tribute to him through an “XXL” Perfos, a “Super” Perfos, sublimated and transformed

Cédric Johner: cutting, shaping, reducing, embellishing

30 years of exploration in the world of watchmaking craftsmanship and Cédric Johner still has that spark that drives him to integrate invention and innovation into his art. He is the guardian of the traditional work of the material. His modesty would almost make us forget that he is one of the last master watchmakers to follow this artisanal protocol.

Less is more. Simplicity is complexity

Watch skeletonisation requires both a skilful mastery of watchmaking techniques and a high sense of aesthetics. When you know that the pieces to be worked on can reach several hundred, you can imagine the number of hours of work that skeletonisation can require. Sometimes a simple calibre requires up to two months of hard work. Here, it is more than 60 hours of work on each movement.

There are two ways to approach a skeletonised movement. The most recent is to imagine the calibre already openworked, already pierced by a void. The second option, the older, more traditional one - the one chosen by Charles Zuber’s teams - is far more restrictive. Most of the great names in watchmaking often resort to this skeletonisation process: it involves starting with an existing movement and piercing openings in it. Reworking an already installed system without compromising either its solidity or its functionality. This maximisation under constraint is a complex exercise, which puts the plasticity of movements to the test.

The 01 calibre is recognisable but quite different from the original after being sawn and drilled by Cédric Johner, who removed most of the metal. Each small remaining surface was assiduously polished and chamfered to give an intimate view of the watch’s mechanical landscape.

5 questions to Cédric Johner

What was the starting point for the skeletonisation of the Perfos?

My starting point is always the observation of the original watch from every angle. I spent several hours observing the PERFOS, with its dial and sunburst indexes. It is by observing that one can find coherence and harmony in the skeletonisation project. For example, here, echoing the “sunburst” indexes, I chose a sunburst satin finish on the plate and a deported sunburst satin finish on the oscillating weight.

Did you have carte blanche or were there any constraints?

The PERFOS is unique in its shape and movement. Its level of finishing is incredible, worthy of fine watchmaking. I tried to make something that would make a lasting impression. I had carte blanche, but in reality, there are many technical constraints. Squeezing a movement is a huge technical challenge because you have to do decoration that doesn’t detract from the functionality of the movement: finding the right places to open, finding beautiful shapes to make so that all the parts are in harmony, and achieving an optimal level of finishing. I always try to find shapes that have not been done before, to create a wow effect. We try to achieve the highest level of finishing that is practised today in watchmaking: cradled angles, contrasts between satin and polished, opening up the pieces to the greatest and most accurate possible degree. Without compromising the technical aspect. We have to be attentive at every stage. Opening in the right place and being very attentive so that it makes a beautiful whole.

Can you tell us about the different stages of the openwork process, from concept to finished product?

The principle of openwork starts with the tracing: you lay out the pieces and drill with a hand piece and a drill bit. Then a small blade, the hand saw, is used. We work with a file to define the openings, then we attack the angles with a small chisel and increasingly fine files, increasingly fine sandpaper.

Can you tell us about the man behind the inspiration, Charles Zuber?

Did you find a correlation between your story and his? It is an honour for me to work in the continuity of the great master Charles Zuber, whom I worked with in the past. He was a craftsman with an incredible know-how. I am happy to continue this know-how today. Charles Zuber was an extraordinary craftsman, a genius, who made a number of pieces recognised throughout the world. I was as precise and qualitative as possible, to follow his path. No compromise.

The ideal PERFOS KARL wearer?

Someone who is solar!

Back to the roots: The new PERFOS 36mm set with diamonds

Charles Zuber’s latest creation represents the subtle and refined expression of neo-Swiss luxury. Introducing the Perfos “Diamonds” - an elegant and sophisticated watch that embodies the epitome of understated luxury.

This 36mm watch has a steel case, with an added touch of brilliance thanks to a bezel that is fully encrusted with 60 diamonds totalling 1.23 carats. Among Perfos’ subtleties, the sophistication of its dial is one of the most distinctive - and uncompromising - expressions of elegance. Set against a black background with grey rhodium-plated hour markers, it takes extreme precision to create each triangular groove from a mother blank, the first dial base, onto which a second plate is then placed, delicately cut by laser. 

Each opening coincides perfectly with each of the sixty indexes. Its strap is made of shiny black alligator leather, matching the colour of the dial in a striking balance of contemporary aesthetics.

Technical specifications

Charles Zuber Perfos "Karl"

Reference: P201.RL147

Limited edition of 8 pieces

Case

• Material: 18-carat rose gold
• Dimensions: 39 x 39mm
• Thickness: 9.00 mm
• Glass: Sapphire crystal
• Bezel and dial ring set with 84 saffron orange baguette-cut sapphires, totalling 2.42 carats
• Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)

Dial and hands

• Black

Movement

• Mechanical with automatic winding
• Skeletonisation by Cédric Johner
• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Number of jewels: 33
• Oscillating weight set with 36 baguette-cut orange sapphires (0.8 carats)
• Power reserve: 38 hours

Functions/Indications

• Hours, Minutes, Seconds

Strap and buckle

• Strap: Black alligator leather, handmade
• Buckle: Folding buckle

MSRP: Price on request

Technical specifications

Charles Zuber Perfos "Diamonds"

Reference: P110.SDL16

Case

• Material: Stainless steel
• Dimensions: 36 x 36mm
• Thickness: 9.00 mm
• Bezel fully encrusted with 60 diamonds totalling 1.23 carats
• Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)

Dial and hands

• Black
• Grey rhodium-plated hour markers

Movement

• Quartz

Functions/Indications

• Hours, Minutes, Seconds

Strap and buckle

• Strap: Black alligator leather, handmade
• Buckle: Folding buckle

MSRP: CHF 9'900

For more information, please visit charleszuber.com