Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes
As fascinating as it is intriguing, the minute repeater is one of the most remarkable complications in watchmaking history. An outstanding technician, Abraham-Louis Breguet quickly developed a passion for the subject and sought ways of improving the mechanism. For this reason, as early as 1783, he created the first repeating watches striking a spring blade instead of the bell-type gong used until then. Today Breguet pays tribute to them through a new timepiece.
Meticulous craftsmanship
Minute repeaters are one of those major horological complications described as small mechanical masterpieces. In addition to the movement, they involve a chiming mechanism consisting mainly of hammers striking a gong-spring. In addition, the various materials used in its design must have obvious acoustic qualities. Finally, all the components have to be small enough to fit into a modestly sized case. It is a skill that requires exacting standards, many years of experience and unrivalled dexterity. It takes more than a month of work to create a minute repeater. Breguet has been perpetuating this art for nearly 250 years at its Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux.
In addition to the expertise of a watchmaker specialising in high complications, an acoustician, constantly on the lookout for perfect sound, is essential to the development of the timepiece. Once the movement has been assembled, the work of tuning the gong is carried out in two phases: harmonic and melodic. Inside an anechoic chamber specially dedicated to this horological complication, the specialist will first seek to ascertain the resonant frequency of each gong. Once this note has been determined, further work is carried out to find the melody most closely resembling Breguet’s signature sound. As each timepiece is hand-crafted, the acoustics differ subtly from one watch to another, making this complication even more unique.
Aesthetic and technical mastery: various skills wit hin a single watch
Contrary to appearances, the minimalist dial of the 7637 requires a particular craft that few artisans still practise today: the grand feu enamelling technique. Representing a mixture of silica and ground oxides, the coloured powders are dissolved in water before being applied to the dial using a variety of methods. The secret then lies in the firing process. Each layer and colour applied requires an additional firing at a set temperature of over 800 degrees Celsius and for a carefully programmed time.
When in contact with this heat, the enamel ignites and melts to create each layer. It can take several weeks to produce a single dial in the desired shade. On this dial, the Breguet Arabic numerals, the minutes track and the Breguet logo are highlighted in a powdered silver colour. The hours and minutes are displayed by open-tipped gold Breguet hands. Lastly, the minute repeater is activated by means of the dedicated slide at 9 o’clock.
The new Classique Répétition Minutes is fitted with a black alligator leather strap secured by a gold triple-blade folding clasp. Within the same range, the watch is also available in white gold, with a grand feu enamel dial and alligator leather strap, the latter two elements in midnight blue.
The invention
This complication emerged above all from a need. Long before the advent of electricity, it was difficult to tell the time after dark in the 17th century. Watchmakers therefore vied with each other in finding ingenious ways to create a watch that could chime on demand. The solution was found around 1680 with the invention of the first minute repeater watch. This innovation paved the way for many others. And so it was that, in addition to chiming the hours, watches also became able to sound the quarters and minutes. An outstanding technician, Abraham-Louis Breguet quickly developed a passion for the subject and sought ways of improving the mechanism.
For this reason, as early as 1783, he created the first repeating watches striking a spring blade instead of the bell-type gong used until then. Initially straight and placed across the back plate, these blades were later coiled around the movement. They offer the advantage of considerably reducing the thickness of chiming watches, while emitting clearer, more harmonious sounds.
This invention proved as useful as it was popular and was adopted by many watchmakers of that era. The founder of Breguet was also behind a number of quarter, half-quarter and minute striking mechanisms.
Technical specifications
Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes
Reference: 7637BB/2Y/9ZU (white gold)
Reference: 7637BR/2N/9ZU (rose gold)
Case
- Material: 18K white gold or rose gold
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Thickness: 12.25 mm
Dial and hands
- Black grand feu enamel
- Arabic numerals, secret signature
Movement
- Calibre: 567.2
- Hand-wound, entirely chased by hand
- Frequency: 2.5 Hz
- Number of parts: 358
- Power reserve of 40 hours
Functions/Indications
- Hours, minutes, minute repeater
Strap and buckle
- Alligator leather strap, gold triple-blade folding clasp
MSRP: Price on request
For more information, please visit breguet.com
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