Zeitwinkel 173° Saphir Bleu and 173° Saphir Fumé

Zeitwinkel introduces its new model 173°, showcasing the patented large-date caliber ZW0103 in a sub 40mm case for the first time.

Soon after its introduction in 2016, Zeitwinkel's model 273° Saphir Fumé with its smoked sapphire dial and the brand’s patented automatic large-date caliber ZW0103 became a brand-defining icon and one of Zeitwinkel’s best-selling watches. It however also did not take long for watch enthusiasts to suggest a version with a smaller case diameter.

Zeitwinkel’s new model 173° Saphir constitutes a direct response to this frequently expressed request. With its completely redesigned 39.7mm case and a lug-to-lug measurement of 48mm, the watch is reminiscent of its larger diameter counterpart 273°, yet features a distinct design of its own.

The challenge was to create a smaller case without compromising the robust construction of the movement. The solid German Silver plates of the caliber result in a movement height of a considerable 8 mm, deliberately chosen for stability and thus long-term precision. Despite its smaller diameter of 39.7mm vs. 42.5mm, the 173° model appears sleeker and offers an ideal fit particularly on slimmer wrists as well as a more rounded silhouette from the side.

The redesigned watches are built in two versions, both with sapphire dials that reveal the front of the movement with its patented large-date mechanism. The more classic model 173° Saphir Fumé features a smoked sapphire dial, while the more eye-catching 173° Saphir Bleu stands out with a dial that can seem nearly solid dark blue and then again surprise with its bright transparency.

The sapphire dials are the result of a complex process that starts with a clear sapphire plate. After the coating and metallization, all elements of the front of the dial are “grown” directly onto the sapphire in a lithographic-galvanic process called “LIGA”.

Thanks to the coating process used, both watches completely change appearance in different light condition, yet are always perfectly legible.

The Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0103 powering both timepieces was designed and developed in the Swiss Jura and is manufactured by Zeitwinkel with plates and bridges made from uncoated German Silver. It features a patented large-date mechanism at the unusual “11" position and a power reserve indicator. Zeitwinkel's watchmakers spend a lot of time decorating every component, even where no watch owner will ever see it.

Zeitwinkel’s artisanal production, the warm color tone and the elaborate decoration make every manufacture caliber ZW0103 unique. The movement has an impressive diameter of 30.4mm, uses 49 jewels and a total of 387 components. Fully wound, it will power the watch for 72 hours. Thanks to the strong automatic winding mechanism, this long power reserve is almost never used.

Both Zeitwinkel 173° models can be commissioned by customers starting immediately and, like every Zeitwinkel timepiece, will be manufactured upon order. A wide range of strap options is available.

The price for Zeitwinkel's new model 173° is CHF 21,500 excluding VAT, shipping cost from the manufacture in Saint-Imier and applicable import duties or tariffs.

Technical specifications

Zeitwinkel 173° Saphir Fumé

Case

• Material: Stainless steel 316L
• Diameter: 39.7 mm
• Thickness: 12.9 mm including domed front crystal
• Lug-to-lug: 48 mm
• Glass: Sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
• Crown: 6.7 mm, 12 grooves, double o-ring seal
• Case back: Sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
• Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

• Transparent sapphire dial with metalized minute marker ring, plasma coating and LIGA front construction (indices, power reserve scale, etc.)
• “Saphir Fumé": smoked grey with a wide range of transparency and appearances depending on the light situation
• Metal applique numerals in proprietary Zeitwinkel typeface, distinctly standing out from the surface, faceted applied indices, grown on the surface of the sapphire dial in a galvanic-lithographic process called LIGA.
• Hour hand, minute hand, second hand and power reserve hand, exactly matching the numerals and minuterie
• Shape: Diamond-worked to ensure legibility in all light conditions, small seconds and power reserve indicator flat and polished.

Movement

• Zeitwinkel ZW0103
• Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., Saint-Imier Switzerland
• Diameter: 13 ½ lines, 30.40 mm
• Height: 8 mm
• Number of jewels: 49
• Frequency: 4Hz, 28'800 vph
• Power reserve of 72 hours

Finishing

• Plates and bridges: Uncoated german silver (maillechort)
• Screws chamfered and polished
• ¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva Stripes lining on automatic wheel bridge and rotor edges of ¾ plate and bridges chamfered and polished
• Optional version: front of the movement frosted, visible behind the transparent dial.

Functions/Indications

• Hours and minutes
• Small seconds
• Large date display at the “11" position
• Power reserve indication

Strap and buckle

• Calf leather strap in various colors or natural caoutchouc strap, additional strap options on request
• 22mm on lug side, 18mm on buckle side
• Zeitwinkel clasp with, ZEITWINKEL" engraving, pin buckle on request for leather strap

MSRP: CHF 21'500 (excl. taxes)

Technical specifications

Zeitwinkel 173° Saphir Bleu

Case

• Material: Stainless steel 316L
• Diameter: 39.7 mm
• Thickness: 12.9 mm including domed front crystal
• Lug-to-lug: 48 mm
• Glass: Sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
• Crown: 6.7 mm, 12 grooves, double o-ring seal
• Case back: Sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
• Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

• Transparent sapphire dial with metalized minute marker ring, plasma coating and LIGA front construction (indices, power reserve scale, etc.)
• “Saphir Bleu": more binary blue color that sometimes appears solid blue, but in other light situations brightly displays the movement decoration.
• Metal applique numerals in proprietary Zeitwinkel typeface, distinctly standing out from the surface, faceted applied indices, grown on the surface of the sapphire dial in a galvanic-lithographic process called LIGA.
• Hour hand, minute hand, second hand and power reserve hand, exactly matching the numerals and minuterie
• Shape: Diamond-worked to ensure legibility in all light conditions, small seconds and power reserve indicator flat and polished.

Movement

• Zeitwinkel ZW0103
• Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., Saint-Imier Switzerland
• Diameter: 13 ½ lines, 30.40 mm
• Height: 8 mm
• Number of jewels: 49
• Frequency: 4Hz, 28'800 vph
• Power reserve of 72 hours

Finishing

• Plates and bridges: Uncoated german silver (maillechort)
• Screws chamfered and polished
• ¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva Stripes lining on automatic wheel bridge and rotor edges of ¾ plate and bridges chamfered and polished
• Optional version: front of the movement frosted, visible behind the transparent dial.

Functions/Indications

• Hours and minutes
• Small seconds
• Large date display at the “11" position
• Power reserve indication

Strap and buckle

• Calf leather strap in various colors or natural caoutchouc strap, additional strap options on request
• 22mm on lug side, 18mm on buckle side
• Zeitwinkel clasp with, ZEITWINKEL" engraving, pin buckle on request for leather strap

MSRP: CHF 21'500 (excl. taxes)

For more information, please visit zeitwinkel.ch