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Timekeepers Club / April 29, 2026

Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction in Gold

A fresh green for a special anniversary: the special edition Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction combines heritage with modernity, both in its aesthetics and its mechanics.

The year 2026 is a special one for the Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte, as its founder and namesake was born on 27 March 1826 – exactly 200 years ago. Not only does he continue to shape the present-day watch brand, he also influenced the craft of watchmaking and the fate of his hometown, Glashütte. This is because Moritz Grossmann was a genius watchmaker and ambitious scientist, profound author, initiator of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte and personality who set much in motion.

For the manufactory, Moritz Grossmann’s 200th birthday is a fitting occasion for a series of special models. These anniversary watches unite the founder’s cutting-edge ideas with the modern watchmaking craft. They reinterpret his legacy, and not by imitating historical concepts. Rather, they represent the creative, ongoing development of Moritz Grossmann’s innovations.

In keeping with his spirit, the watches feature modern manufacturing methods to achieve technological perfection and exceptional aesthetics, both of which were ambitions of the founder. The manufactory today realises his visions with soul and passion, making it one of a small number of watchmakers globally which master every detail of the time-honoured craft and breathe new life into it.

Special anniversary edition: Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction

The third special edition for the 200th birthday of Moritz Grossmann: on 29 April 2026, the manufactory will debut two versions of the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, one with a yellow gold case and the other with a white gold case. This means the anniversary will be offering a further premiere, namely, the first time that the Tefnut model will be available with a yellow gold case.

Both models reference the anniversary year with an ‘1826’ engraving on the movement’s balance cock. The vintage ‘M. GROSSMANN’ logo on the dial, appearing just as it did in 1875, is a further homage to history.

Traditional craftsmanship for the dial

The Tefnut is an example of the manufactory’s philosophy of classic perfection. It has a simple design embodying understatement. At its centre is a dial with a velvety, matt texture produced using a technique passed down from the 19th century: grain or silver-plating by friction. This is carried out by hand in the Moritz Grossmann ateliers. A special paste comprising silver powder, salt, cream of tartar and water is rubbed on using a small brush and worked in until the structure exhibits a fine grain. The surface is then perfected with a careful final polish. Every single one of these steps must be executed with a great deal of sensitivity and requires a delicate touch combined with experience. This is why only a few experts have mastered this traditional technique.

However, the end result justifies the time it takes: the interplay of light and shadow, gloss and matt creates a unique effect that contributes to creating the distinctive charm of the Tefnut.

Contrasting elements in a fresh colour highlight the dial: all numerals and lettering, the minute scale and historic ‘M. Grossmann’ logo dating from 1875 are set in green. Above them sweep extraordinarily fine, lance-shaped hands crafted by hand at the manufactory. These are created in a series of elaborate steps. Their gently rounded lines and delicate tip catch the eye of any beholder.

Carrying on the founder’s tradition

The Tefnut’s classic design achieves true brilliance thanks to the flat case which is made in either yellow gold or white gold. The elegant silhouette is made possible by the faithful calibre 102.1, whose hand-wound movement measures just four millimetres tall with a diameter of 26 millimetres. The movement’s sophisticated architecture includes all the special, characteristic features of a Grossmann calibre. This hand-wound movement comprises a classic pillar movement formed of a main plate and 3/5 plate. Typical elements include a stepped balance cock with Grossmann micrometer screw and the raised chatons.

Such details are a direct reference to Moritz Grossmann’s ingenuity and were even typical of his historical movements back in his time. All the movement components have an exacting finish, which further contributes to their unmistakability.

Premiere on 29 April 2026

The special edition Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction for the 200th birthday of Moritz Grossmann will be released on 29 April 2026. The special edition comprises a model with a yellow gold case and a model with a white gold case, each of which is limited to twelve pieces.

Technical specifications


Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction in Gold

Reference: MG-003983

Reference: MG-003984

Limited edition of 12 pieces each

Case

  • Material: Yellow or white gold
  • Diameter: 39.0 mm
  • Thickness: 8.50 mm
  • Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
  • Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

  • Dial: Brass, engraved, set in green and hand silver-plated by friction
  • Hands: Manually crafted, polished gold or steel annealed to a brown-violet hue

Movement

  • Manufactory calibre 102.1
  • Manual winding, regulated in five positions
  • Diameter: 26.0 mm
  • Height: 3.5 mm
  • Number of parts: 188
  • Number of jewels: 22, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
  • Escapement: Lever escapement
  • Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with four inertia screws and two poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring
  • Balance Diameter: 10.0 mm
  • Frequency: 3 Hz, 21'600 semi oscillations/hour
  • Power reserve 48 hours when fully wound

Functions/Indications

  • Hours, minutes
  • Small seconds

Strap and buckle

  • Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in gold

MSRP

  • EUR 54'300 (yellow gold)
  • EUR 52'500 (white gold)

For more information, please visit grossmann-uhren.com

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