J.N. Shapiro Resurgence

Making History: J.N. Shapiro Reveals First “U.S. Made” Mechanical Watch Since 1969. Production on the J.N. Shapiro Resurgence, a California-made watchmaking marvel by independent U.S. watchmaker Josh Shapiro – also the most expensive time-only watch ever made in the country – is underway.

Following the sell-out success of the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum Limited Edition, independent U.S. watchmaker Josh Shapiro has launched a new line that marks a resurgence in American watchmaking. The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence is the first all-American wristwatch to be produced since the Hamilton Watch Company stopped manufacturing watches in the country in 1969. It is the most expensive time-only, mechanical watch ever manufactured in the U.S., a feat rarely completed in the same workshop. Like the British watchmaker, Roger Smith, who is considered one of the world’s leading independent watchmakers, Shapiro’s timepieces are produced in one workshop.

His techniques are inspired by George Daniels, widely regarded as one of the most important and influential watchmakers of the 20th century. He was a pioneer in independent watchmaking and is credited with developing several key innovations in mechanical watchmaking. The George Daniels method emphasizes handcrafted, bespoke watchmaking, focusing on using traditional tools and techniques to create high-quality timepieces, all in one workshop.

While Daniels emphasized creating one timepiece at a time in one workshop using manual methods, similarly we are also proudly reinvigorating the American system of watchmaking and reviving it after the industry died in the late ‘60s. Hamilton, Waltham and Elgin had vertically integrated factories where they made everything for their watches under one roof, using automatic methods. This was unique in the watch world as the Swiss system then and now involves multiple suppliers to complete one watch. The virtues of this American system include high-quality control, versatility, and consistent uptime without supplier delays.” says Shapiro.

Renowned for his engine-turning and machining skills first seen on dials for others before becoming a feature of his Infinity Series, Shapiro has taken American watchmaking to new heights in his latest collection. It is the realization of a dream first visualized 12 years ago, five years’ reinvestment from the Infinity series for the million-dollar capital investment in essential equipment, and twelve months’ active prototyping of a watch containing a U.S.-made movement, case, and dial comprising 148 components. “When I first started getting into watchmaking, this was the dream – making a watch from scratch and everything in it. We made 148 of the 180 components for the J.N. Shapiro Resurgence,” says Shapiro.

Inspired by George Daniels’ book, Watchmaking, Shapiro started work on his first movement prototype in 2019. It took almost three years to complete, using some components from an old Hamilton watch to supplement what was produced in the California workshop, but he scrapped that idea. Determined to reach the original goal, it took another year to create this iteration of the watch, self-funded, designed and manufactured from scratch by his team of seven watchmakers, plus himself. “I’m very proud of that. It’s a big deal,” he says.

All components are made in Shapiro’s workshop, excluding hairsprings, mainsprings, crystals, gaskets, straps and jewels. Flat hairsprings are ordered from Switzerland, then vibrated and Breguet over-coiled at the workshop. Progress is being made for jewels and hairsprings to be made in the U.S. by the time of production.

Four exclusive elements of the J.N. Shapiro Resurgence that make it one-of-a-kind in the world:

1. Layered guilloché dial
2. Engine-turned mid case
3. Damaskeening pattern on the bridges (American equivalent of Côtes de Genève)
4. Rounded spokes on the wheels

There is no denying the practical, technical and financial challenges to this type of endeavor aside from the mental and emotional ones. Plus, the limited capacity of the small team demands resilience when the production cycle gives way to development of the prototype. And when a half-million-dollar machine handling most of the prototyping work breaks midcycle, the team must innovate again and find ways to progress using other machines. “We did it, and we still met our deadlines, but it was very stressful. On the technical side, making the pinions (gear wheels that drive the movement) was extremely challenging. They are the parts no one ever sees but are the most difficult parts of a watch to make. Almost everyone, even independent watchmakers, have most of their watch parts made for them, and they finish them in-house. Since we did everything, I’m very proud of my watchmakers for pulling it off.”

A series of watchmaking firsts

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence is a micromechanical wonder that offers clients a choice of three free-sprung, hand-engraved movements with hacking seconds, beating at 18,000 BPH. There are also options for decoration styles beyond the damaskeening currently rendered.

Damaskeening is the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève, a finish previously popular on American pocket watches. The J.N. Shapiro watchmakers replicate this effect by using a spinning abrasive on their engine-turning machines (as per Côtes de Genève) to execute stunning wavy patterns. The ancient art of engine turning underpins the Shapiro Method, with inventive patternmaking for dial and movement decoration, and all watch parts made in America adding value to his highly collectible creations. “We have also gone all out on the anglage (chamfering), especially emphasizing internal angles. The wheels in the movement are 14ct gold, which is special, and the spokes are rounded, not flat, which is very difficult to do,” says Shapiro.

It's all in the detail

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence features a multi-layered dial in customizable colors. It comprises separately engine-turned sectors that showcase multiple patterns, including barleycorn and Shapiro’s distinctive Infinity weave. Each layer is a different piece of metal, engine-turned separately, trimmed and painstakingly milled for a perfect fit. It’s no mean feat, particularly as they have to align 100-year-old guilloché machines with hyper modern CNC machines to achieve that result. “There are people who have produced multiple pieces of guilloché, but no one has created perfectly aligned, layered guilloché like this before. This is completely new in the watchmaking world,” says Shapiro.

The subdial is decorated with a miniaturized moiré pattern usually reserved for the complete dial. Every numeral is individually machined and black polished. Shapiro has also created a new 3-D spade design for the hands, which point to indexes in Roman numerals, Hindu Arabic or Hebrew fonts.

The craftsmanship in this work of art is further exemplified by the traditionally engine-turned mid-case, historically seen only on the finest pocket watches, and no longer produced today. The barleycorn decoration completely encircles the 38mm case, with detachable lugs designed to screw in from the side to avoid disrupting the guilloché. This enables two-tone customization, with some customers specifying white gold or tantalum for the lugs, caseback and bezel and rose gold for the mid-case.

The original J.N. Shapiro Resurgence series comprises a rose gold case and accents with a frosted silver-white dial or dark grey zirconium dial at $85,000, an 18k palladium white gold case and accents with frosted silver dial or a tantalum case with white gold accents and navy dial at $80,000. Other options are a steel case with blued numerals and frosted silver dial or a dark zirconium case and dial with purple accents at $70,000. There are also three different bridge layouts customers can choose from. Each has their own unique style and technical challenges.

The first delivery is scheduled for the end of 2023. In Europe, J.N.Shapiro is exclusively represented by the authorized dealer Ace Jewelers (www.acejewelers.com).

Technical specifications

J.N. Shapiro Resurgence

Reference: RESRGDAGR

Case

• Material: 18-carat rose gold
• Diameter: 38 mm
• Thickness: 8.70 mm
• Transparent caseback
• Water-resistant to 30 meters

Dial and hands

• Dark grey Zirconium dial with guilloché pattern
• The subdial is decorated with a miniaturized moiré pattern
• Arabic numerals

Movement

• Hand-wound movement
• Frequency: 18'000 vph (2.5 Hz)
• Power reserve of 42 hours

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes, and small seconds

Strap and buckle

• Alligator strap with a rose gold pin buckle

MSRP

• USD 85'000
• EUR 105'000 (incl. taxes)

For more information, please visit jnshapirowatches.com