Auctions
Timekeepers Club / September 11, 2024

Sotheby's Presents 'Treasures of Time' Private Watch Collection

There is no greater feeling, as treasure hunters which we are, to come across an unsuspected cache filled with horological treasures such as the pieces in this collection. It’s not often that you can offer in one sale, from the same owner, references as prestigious the Patek Philippe 1563 or one of the brand’s 2499 from the 1950’s first series, along with many others. This exceptional sale reflects the careful, enlightened, and passionate curation this distinguished collector has developed over more than five decades. We have no doubt that this collection will ignite the passion of the most discerning watch collectors all over the world.Mikael Wallhagen, Head of Watches, Sotheby’s Geneva.

Sotheby’s presents Treasures of Time, a historically important private collection of vintage watches, carrying a total estimate of CHF 8,486,000 – 18,693,000 / US$ 10,000,000 – 22,000,000, to be sold in Geneva on 10 November, in a dedicated single owner sale on the day of Sotheby’s flagship Important Watches Sale.

Composed of thirty-one exceptional timepieces – primarily from illustrious watchmaker Patek Philippe – this highly curated sale is a masterclass of sophisticated watch collecting. Assembled over more than fifty years, the collection threads the needle of beauty in design, with the collector’s love and fascination for mechanical complexity. He sees each of the watches in the collection as ‘mechanical gems’.

Featuring rarely seen references from Patek Philippe (including an astonishing example from the first series of the legendary reference 2499 and one of only three known reference 1563, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin and Universal Genève, the collection spans over a hundred years of horological history.

From a Patek Philippe pocket watch produced in 1918 (a yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph keyless lever watch with moon phases – estimate 100,000 CHF – 200,000 CHF), to a Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Pour Le Mérite produced in circa 2007 (a limited edition platinum split-second chronograph tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve indication – estimate 200,000 CHF – 400,000 CHF), all the pieces were carefully curated as a celebration of watchmaking excellence in design, complications and innovation in the past hundred years.

My passion for collecting began in the 1980s when I was considering the subject of time from a philosophical point of view. This led me to the art of watchmaking which is where my fascination with mechanics intersected with my enthusiasm for design. For me, with their beauty and elegance, watches I love dazzle like pieces of jewellery – they are mechanical gems. Building a collection is always an adventure – over the years I have been very intensely involved with these watches, constantly seeking, and learning but also wearing them. They are witnesses of my life’s journey and therefore there is a personal story connected with each of the watches in this collection. I am pleased that these 31 watches from my collection, will now be able to continue their journeys and bring joy to other collectors.said the Distinguished Collector.

The Magnificent Seven Highlights from Treasures of Time

Patek Philippe
Lot 16
- 'First Series' Reference 2499
A pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases and case by Wenger, made in 1950.

This watch has come to market only once before in the history of this timepiece and was sold by the family of the original owner in 2012. Only 349 reference 2499 were ever produced, most likely only 55 produced for the first series. This model is one of only six known pink gold first series reference 2499 (only 33 were made in the production history of this reference) and only one of three with a Wenger case. Reference 2499 is the second perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch from Patek Philippe after the reference 1518. This legendary first series features rectangular pushers.
CHF 2,500,000 – 5,000,000

Patek Philippe
Lot 18
- Reference 1563, Possibly Unique
A yellow gold split-second chronograph with luminous Breguet numerals and luminous hands, made in 1947.

This is one of only three known reference 1563 and the only known reference 1563 with Breguet numeral dial. The reference was made famous for having been owned and worn by jazz legend Duke Ellington at the height of his fame – it now resides in Geneva in the Patek Philippe Museum. The model on sale at Sotheby’s this November features the engraved signature L. Estée on the back and the initials S.G.H. Its dial is different from the other two pieces known and showcases the much sought-after Breguet numerals dial, more often seen on steel than on yellow gold cases. Even more noteworthy is the use of luminous material on the dial, confirmed in the Extract, and inlaid in the shape of the Breguet numeral.
CHF 1,000,000 – 3,000,000

Patek Philippe
Lot 20
- Reference 1518, Sold at the Prestigious Patek Philippe Sale of 1989
A pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, made in 1948.

The present reference is one of only 58 pink gold ever made and one of the most important vintage references as it is the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to ever be serially produced in the history of watchmaking.
CHF 1,500,000 – 3,000,000

Patek Philippe
Lot 17
- Reference 1436, Possibly Unique
A yellow gold split-second chronograph wristwatch, with hard enamel Breguet numerals, made in 1942.

This series was the first split-seconds chronograph wristwatch ever produced in a series by Patek Philippe. Its production spanned from 1938 and 1971 but only about 140 reference 1436 were ever made, with 120 in yellow gold. The present reference features a very rare and charismatic dial with enamelled Breguet numerals. Moreover, the subsidiary dials are oversized in comparison to the usual layouts for this reference.
CHF 400,000 – 800,000

Patek Philippe

Lot 23. 'Tasti Tondi', Reference 1463. A yellow gold chronograph wristwatch. Made in 1956

Vacheron Constantin
Lots 7 & 8
– Reference 3307 yellow gold mono-pusher chronograph wristwatches with enamel dials made for King Alexander I of Yugoslavia, made in 1927. Case numbers 252’040 and 252’042. These two exceptional timepieces are confirmed to have been produced in 1927 for none other than King Alexander I of Yugoslavia. Despite its 80-year history, it remains in remarkable condition, representing a captivating blend of horological craftsmanship and historical significance.

Single-button chronograph wristwatches, or chronographs mono-poussoir, emerged during the golden age of watchmaking in the 1920s and 1930s. Their elegant design and understated sophistication have made them timeless classics, cherished by collectors. According to our research only about 22 examples of Ref. 3307 have been produced. They featured a 13’’’ caliber based on an ebauche by what was later known as the company Valjoux.

From a historical perspective, King Alexander of Yugoslavia (16 December 1888 – 9 October 1934) lived through some of the most turbulent times of the 20th century. As a young man, Alexander was educated in Geneva, and it is intriguing to speculate that these early experiences in Switzerland may have influenced his decision to acquire a Vacheron Constantin timepiece later in life. Following his father’s death in 1921, Alexander became the ruler of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, later known as Yugoslavia. These two watches, once owned by a king who navigated such a complex and volatile era, are not only marvels of horological artistry but also profound historical artefacts.
CHF 70,000 – 100,000 (each)

A. Lange & Söhne Lot 4 – Tourbillon ‘Pour le mérite’

The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite" in platinum is a testament to the brand's commitment to mechanical innovation and artisanal craftsmanship. Limited to just 50 pieces, this timepiece combines a tourbillon with a fusée-and-chain transmission—a groundbreaking achievement in watchmaking that enhances precision by counteracting gravity and ensuring consistent power delivery. The platinum version, with reference 701.005, exemplifies the brand's dedication to exclusivity and technical mastery, embodying the revival of A. Lange & Söhne's legacy in luxury horology.
CHF 250,000 – 500,000

The collection will be offered in a dedicated live sale in Geneva at the Mandarin Oriental on 10 November 2024

Highlights from the collection were showcased during the Geneva Watch Days at Sotheby’s Rue François Diday on 29-30 August

Followed by further Exhibitions in:

New York on 6–9 September / 1334 York Ave, New York, NY 10021

Los Angeles on 12–15 September / 350 N Camden Dr Beverly Hills, California 90210

Tokyo on 21–23 September

Hong Kong on 4–5 October / Sotheby's Maison, Hong Kong at Chater House, 8 Connaught Road Central, Central

Singapore on 18–19 October / Conrad Singapore Orchard 1 Cuscaden Rd, 249715 Singapore

Taipei on 21–22 October

Dubai on 28–30 October / DIFC Gate Village, Building 3, Level B2

Geneva on 7–9 November / Mandarin Oriental, Geneva, Quai Turrettini 1,1201 Geneva, Switzerland

For more information, please visit sothebys.com

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