Phillips Unveils Highlights From The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is delighted to present highlights of the Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII, set to take place on 9 and 10 May 2026. Phillips’ first live watch auction of the year will present more than 200 rare and collectible timepieces spanning both vintage and contemporary horology.

Standout highlights include a Rolex “The Dragon” Ref. 6085 with cloisonné enamel dial by Nelly Richard, a Patek Philippe Ref. 3998J-013 with hieroglyph dial, and an F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription” No. 18.

The sale will also present an Agassiz Watch Co. “Victory” world-time pocket watch gifted to Charles de Gaulle to commemorate the Allied victory in World War II, an Akrivia AK-06 in stainless steel, and an immaculate example of the Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503 triple calendar chronograph.

Ahead of the auction, a curated selection of highlights will embark on an international tour, making stops in New York, Milan, Singapore, London, Riyadh, and Hong Kong, offering collectors and enthusiasts the opportunity to preview these extraordinary timepieces. Further details and the full catalogue will be released in the coming weeks.

Alexandre Ghotbi, Head of Watches, Europe & Middle East, and Tiffany To, Head of Sale, jointly said, “The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII brings together an exceptional group of timepieces that reflect the extraordinary breadth of watchmaking – from historically important vintage watches to some of the most sought-after creations of modern independent makers. Highlights such as the Rolex ‘Dragon’ cloisonné dial, the remarkable Patek Philippe Ref. 3998J with hieroglyph dial, and the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No. 18 illustrate the diversity and quality that collectors can expect this season. We are particularly excited to present several watches appearing publicly for the first time, including the Urban Jürgensen Reference 6.”

Patek Philippe

Lot 27 I Patek Philippe Ref. 2523, 18k Yellow Gold, Polychrome Cloisonné Enamel ‘South America’ dial. 1953. Estimate: CHF 5,000,000 – 10,000,000

The 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 is a two-crown world time wristwatch with a polychrome cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of South America. Made in 1953, it is one of only two examples known to exist in yellow gold with the South America map. It has been nearly four decades since one has been seen at public auction, making this an extraordinary moment for the Patek Philippe market.

Lot 22 | Patek Philippe Ref. 3998J-013, 18k Yellow Gold, Hieroglyph Dial, 2002 Estimate: CHF 80,000 – 160,000

One of only four known examples with Egyptian hieroglyph hour markers, all commissioned by the same collector, the dial of the present unique Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3998J spells “HALMUT NAUTUN” in hieroglyphs, most likely referencing the celebrated photographer Helmut Newton. Research suggests the watch was commissioned by Sheikh Saud bin Mohammed Al Thani, the renowned Qatari prince, who maintained a close relationship with Newton.

Lot 144 I Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, Ref. 6002G-010, 18k White Gold, 2018. Estimate: CHF 2,000,000 – 4,000,000

This is only the second time a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002G has appeared at an international auction in its desirable black-dial configuration. Introduced in 2013 as the successor to the Ref. 5002, the model was, at the time of launch, Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch. The double-dial masterpiece houses 12 complications, including a cathedral minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, and astronomical indications on the reverse such as a sky chart, sidereal time, and the moon’s phases and orbit. Produced in extremely limited numbers and allocated strictly by application to Patek Philippe’s most important clients, the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains among the most exclusive creations in modern watchmaking.

Lot 220 I Patek Philippe Ref. 2499/100, 18k Yellow Gold, 1984. Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 650,000

The Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 is one of the most iconic wristwatches of the 20th century. The present watch is a Fourth Series example, distinguished by round chronograph pushers, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions, and a sapphire crystal. Preserved in excellent overall condition, the dial remains remarkably well preserved, while the case retains strong proportions and crisp hallmarks. Having appeared publicly only once before, in 2019, it now returns to the market for its next custodian.

Rolex

Lot 118 I Rolex ‘Datocompax Killy,’ Ref. 6036, 18k Yellow Gold, Circa 1955. Estimate: CHF 500,000 – 1,000,000

Introduced in 1951, the Rolex Ref. 6036 is one of only five models ever produced by the brand combining a triple calendar with a chronograph. The present example, cased in rare 18k yellow gold, is among the finest preserved examples of the reference ever to appear on the market. The dial remains exceptionally crisp with beautifully intact graphics and radium accents, while the case retains remarkably sharp edges and hallmarks, making this Ref. 6036 a true trophy watch for collectors.

Lot 119 I Rolex ‘The Dragon,’ Ref. 6085, 18k Yellow Gold, 1952. Estimate: CHF 500,000 – 1,000,000

Vintage Rolex cloisonné enamel dials rank among the most prized achievements of decorative watchmaking, admired for their rarity, artistry, and remarkable depth of color. The present Ref. 6085 features an extraordinary cloisonné enamel dial depicting a dragon – one of only five known examples of the motif across all Rolex references. The dial was created by Nelly Richard, one of the most accomplished enamellers of the 20th century, working with the famed Geneva dialmaker Stern Frères.

Lot 88 I Rolex Ref. 6062, Stainless Steel, Circa 1953. Estimate: CHF 500,000 – 1,000,000

Introduced at the Basel fair in 1950, the Rolex Ref. 6062 was the brand’s first automatic wristwatch to combine a triple calendar with moon-phase within a waterproof Oyster case. One of only two Rolex models ever produced with this combination of complications, it represents one of the most technically ambitious wristwatches of the brand’s vintage era. The present stainless-steel example is preserved in exceptional condition, with a beautifully preserved two-tone dial featuring Arabic numerals at three and nine o’clock and crisp original printing. The case retains strong proportions, sharp engravings, and its characteristic Oyster construction.

F.P.Journe

Lot 6 I F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance ‘Souscription,’ No. 18, Platinum and 18k Pink Gold, Circa 2000. Estimate: CHF 450,000 – 900,000

Early F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance models with brass movements and 38mm cases are among the most desirable watches of modern independent watchmaking. The present example is number 18 of the original 20-piece Souscription series delivered in 2000, ranks among the most important. These watches were offered to Journe’s earliest supporters and helped finance the creation of his brand. Even more exceptional, this example features the extremely rare two-tone platinum and 18k pink gold case with an 18k white gold dial – one of only three known.

Lot 128 I F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe, Platinum, 2001 Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 300,000

Introduced in 2001, the F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe was the first automatic chronograph wristwatch to combine a large date with a flyback chronograph and an exceptional 120-hour power reserve. The present 38mm platinum example is one of only three known featuring a brass movement with straight Côtes de Genève decoration and a "shiny” 18k yellow gold dial. Believed to be among the very first Octa Chronographe watches delivered, and preserved with its original box and certificate, it represents an important early production piece from François-Paul Journe.

Lot 149 I F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance ‘Pisa,’ Platinum, Circa 2009. Estimate: CHF 450,000 – 900,000

F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance is among the most important technical achievements of modern watchmaking. Inspired by the work of 18th-century clockmaker Antide Janvier, the watch employs two balance wheels beating in resonance to enhance precision. The present example is an exceptionally rare, limited edition produced exclusively for the Milan-based retailer Pisa in a series of just five pieces. Housed in a platinum case and fitted with an 18k pink gold movement, it features a striking 18k white gold dial with dark grey ruthenium-plated subdials that create dramatic contrast.

Independent Watchmaking

Lot 34 I Urban Jürgensen Reference 6, 18k Yellow Gold, Circa 1990 Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 80,000

Phillips is honoured to present an extraordinarily rare and possibly unique Urban Jürgensen Reference 6, appearing publicly for the first time. Produced in extremely limited numbers during the 1990s, the model was never a commercial success and has remained largely known only through literature and collector discussions. Even leading experts have reported seeing only a handful of examples. Powered by a manual-wind Frédéric Piguet movement, the Reference 6 stands apart from other Urban Jürgensen watches of the period with its distinctive tonneau case, sword- shaped hands, and striking lapis lazuli dial.

Lot 36 I Akrivia AK-06, Stainless Steel, Circa 2018 Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 700,000

Founded in 2012 by Rexhep Rexhepi, Akrivia has rapidly become one of the most respected names in contemporary independent watchmaking. The AK-06, introduced in 2017, exemplifies Rexhepi’s pursuit of chronometric precision and refined mechanical architecture. Its manual-wind movement, visible dial-side, features a beautifully symmetrical layout with a power-reserve display and a zero- reset seconds mechanism. The model was produced in two limited series of 25 pieces each, with the present example belonging to the stainless-steel version.

Lot 65 I Greubel Forsey × Philippe Dufour × Michel Boulanger Naissance d’Une Montre 1, No. 01/11, 18k White Gold, Circa 2016 Estimate: CHF 400,000 – 800,000

The present Naissance d’Une Montre 1 is number 1 of a limited series of just 11 pieces created under the Time Æon Foundation, an initiative founded by Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Philippe Dufour, among others, to preserve traditional watchmaking skills. The current watch is the only production example in the series whose movement was entirely made and assembled by Michel Boulanger, following six years of study under his mentors. Exceptionally, it is also the only example fitted with a fully handmade 18k white gold case. A completely hand-crafted tourbillon wristwatch, it is offered in superb, hardly worn condition by its original owner.

Lot 126 I Roger Smith Series 3, 18k Pink Gold, 2019 Estimate: CHF 300,000 – 600,000

Roger Smith is widely regarded as the leading figure in modern British watchmaking and the only apprentice of the legendary George Daniels. Produced in extremely limited numbers from his Isle of Man workshop, Smith’s watches embody traditional handcraft and the Daniels Co-Axial escapement. The present Series 3 in 18k pink gold features a retrograde date and represents a landmark example: the very first Series 3 to appear at auction and one of only five examples produced in pink gold to date.

Additional Highlights

Lot 24 I Agassiz Watch Co. Victory Watch, Gifted to Charles de Gaulle, 18k Yellow Gold, 1945. Estimate: CHF 300,000 – 600,000

This is a unique world-time timepiece with a polychrome cloisonné enamel dial depicting Joan of Arc, made to commemorate the Allied victory in World War II, and presented in 1945 to General Charles de Gaulle. The dial was executed by the renowned enameller Michel Deville for Stern Frères, while the caseback bears a striking “Victory” engraving over a world map alongside a personal dedication to de Gaulle. Preserved in superb condition, this extraordinary watch is both a masterpiece of horology and a remarkable artefact of modern history.

Lot 26 I Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503, Stainless Steel And 14k Pink Gold, 1942. Estimate: CHF 400,000 – 800,000

Among the rarest vintage complicated wristwatches by Audemars Piguet, the Ref. 5503 triple-calendar chronograph with moon-phase represents an extraordinary achievement of early 1940s watchmaking. Produced between 1941 and 1943 in only five examples, the model features a distinctive two-tone case combining stainless steel with 14k pink gold for the bezel, crown, and pushers. The present watch, produced in 1942, is prominently illustrated in “Audemars Piguet: 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches” (pp. 218–219). Powered by the celebrated calibre 13VZAQ, it combines a chronograph with a full calendar and moon-phase display.

Lot 54 I Richard Mille ‘Nadal’ RM 027 Tourbillon, Carbon, 2010 Estimate: CHF 500,000 – 1,000,000

Introduced in 2010 in collaboration with tennis champion Rafael Nadal, the Richard Mille RM 027 Tourbillon redefined the possibilities of modern high-performance watchmaking. Designed to be worn during professional tennis matches, the watch weighs under 20 grams including the strap, making it one of the lightest mechanical tourbillon wristwatches ever produced. Its manual-wind movement is suspended within the case by a network of high-tension cables, engineered to withstand extreme shocks. Produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces, the present example is numbered 25/50 and is offered with its original warranty and presentation box.

Lot 225 I Vacheron Constantin 'Cioccolatone’ Ref. 4764, 18k Pink Gold, 1958. Estimate: CHF 250,000 – 500,000

Postwar optimism in the early 1950s inspired a new design language emphasizing clean lines and organic forms. Vacheron Constantin answered with the boldly shaped “Cioccolatone,” an oversized square wristwatch with rounded, stepped lugs and a gently curved case, now celebrated as an icon of mid-century watch design. The present Ref. 4764 represents the model in its most prestigious configuration, featuring a triple calendar with moon-phase. Only 47 examples were produced in either 18k yellow or pink gold, with pink gold examples far rarer. Preserved in spectacular condition, this example is one of the finest known, with an unpolished case retaining crisp hallmarks and an exceptionally well-preserved original dial.

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