Phillips 'Reloaded': Results

White Glove Auction Reloaded: The Rebirth Of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999, achieves CHF 24.8 Million. Led by an F.P. Journe wristwatch which sold for CHF 7,320,000, a world record for an F.P. Journe wristwatch, and the Rolex the "Rainbow" wristwatch which sold for CHF 5,505,000, a world record for a Rolex Daytona.

Geneva, 8 November 2024

Sale Total: CHF24,865,315 / $28,503,111 / €26,444,263

Lot 14. F.P. Journe, A career defining, and history changing platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir and original technical drawings, 1993. WORLD AUCTION RECORD FOR AN F.P. JOURNE WRISTWATCH. Estimate: CHF2,000,000. Price achieved: CHF7,320,000 $8,390,916/€7,784,820.

The Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité 15/93 is the first wristwatch sold by François-Paul Journe and the watch that established F.P. Journe as a need-to-know brand, launched in 1999 as a 20-piece subscription set. Before becoming a renowned watchmaker, Journe created unique pieces for a select group of collectors. The present Tourbillon is the second wristwatch he made and the first he sold. This 1993 watch is immediately identifiable as a Journe, featuring a gold movement, a raw dial design with visible elements like the cone-and-feeler power-reserve indication at 11 o’clock, and a solid caseback. This watch, which was featured on the cover of Jean-Pierre Grosz's book Invenit et Fecit, is one of only three to be handmade by Journe himself. It is meticulously hand engraved with inked inscriptions on the dial and numbered ‘15/93’, marking it as made in 1993 and as Journe’s 15th timepiece. The watch comes with the original technical drawings, articles, and the invoice.

Lot 27. Rolex, Ref. 16599SAAEC, A highly important and most probably unique white gold chronograph wristwatch with rainbow hued multi-gem sapphire bezel, Circa 1994. WORLD AUCTION RECORD FOR AN AUTOMATIC ROLEX DAYTONA WRISTWATCH. Estimate: CHF3,000,000. Sold for CHF5,505,000 $6,310,382/€5,854,568. 

A few timepieces are so elusive that only a handful of horological connoisseurs have seen them in person. The unique, first-of-its-kind Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ‘Rainbow’ ref. 16599 in white gold is one such watch, making its auction debut during Reloaded this November after decades in a private collection. Created as a one-off masterpiece in the 1990s, this Rolex features a bezel set with degradé-hued sapphires transitioning from deep red to purple, mimicking the colours of the rainbow. While now recognised as one of the most exclusive Rolex timepieces, this watch was a groundbreaking concept at its creation, unlike anything the market had seen before. Nearly two decades passed before the production series ‘Rainbow’ Daytona was introduced. This watch features a unique rainbow colour scheme different from all later models. Previously, the market had only seen Zenith El Primero caliber-based Cosmographs with bezels set with a single type of baguette stone, making this piece exceptionally rare. The ‘Rainbow’ Daytona, celebrated as one of Rolex’s most exclusive timepieces, offers collectors a rare opportunity to acquire this technically and visually stunning masterpiece.

Lot 40. Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, A unique, historical and era defining detent escapement tourbillon platinum oval pocketwatch with remontoire, power reserve indication, thermometer and moonphase display, 2005. WORLD AUCTION RECORD FOR A DEREK PRATT TIMEPIECE. Estimate: CHF1,000,000. Sold for CHF3,690,000 $4,229,847/€3,924,315. 

The Oval Pocket Watch by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen stands out with its oval shape and advanced flying tourbillon featuring a remontoir and detent escapement. Crafted between 1983 and 2005, it boasts a brushed platinum case and a hand-finished movement signed ‘Urban Jürgensen’ and ‘Invenit et Fecit’. This fully handmade watch showcases Pratt’s dedication to precision horology, incorporating a tourbillon with a detent escapement and remontoir for consistent power and accuracy. As technical director at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, Pratt hand-crafted this piece with Kari Voutilainen’s assistance, honoring legendary watchmakers like A-L Breguet and John Arnold. From Dr. Helmut Crott’s collection, this watch makes its auction debut during Reloaded this November, offering a rare opportunity to acquire a masterpiece of horological sophistication and tradition.

Lot 60. Philippe Dufour, A unique, historic and scholarship-changing platinum wristwatch with double escapement and certificate, 2014. Estimate: CHF800,000 - 1,600,000. Sold for CHF 1,512,000 $1,733,206/€1,608,012.

This unique Philippe Dufour Duality challenges the belief that only nine models were made. This previously unknown 10th piece was crafted for a long-standing collector and features a distinctive configuration: a fully brushed platinum case, a dark grey dial with pink-gold indexes and hands, and a movement without inscriptions. Its unique status is confirmed by the Certificate of Origin. Introduced in 1996, the Duality was the first wristwatch to feature a double escapement, with two independent balance wheels connected by a central differential gear for enhanced accuracy. Inspired by a school watch from the Vallée de Joux Watchmaking School, Dufour miniaturized this complex mechanism for wristwatch use. Although initially planning to produce 25 pieces, only nine were believed to have been completed due to the intricate nature of the design and market limitations. This 10th and final piece, fresh to the market and offered by the original owner, represents a significant milestone in independent horology.

Lot 52. Patek Philippe, Ref. 3974, An ultra rare and historic white gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, leap year and 24-hour indications with certificate of origin, Circa 1989. Estimate: CHF600,000 - 1,200,000. Sold for CHF1,117,600 $1,281,105/€1,188,568. 

Lot 26. A. Lange & Söhne, Ref. 701.007, An early, highly rare and attractive white gold tourbillon wristwatch with fusée chain mechanism and power reserve indication number, 102 of a 150 piece limited edition, 1998. Estimate: CHF150,000 - 300,000. Sold for CHF469,900 $538,646/€499,739. 

Lot 64. Patek Philippe, Ref. 3979, A fresh to-the-market and possibly unique pink gold minute repeating automatic wristwatch with certificate of origin, additional caseback and purchase receipts, made to commemorate the 150th Anniversary of Patek Philippe, 1996. Estimate: CHF250,000 - 500,000. Sold for CHF 406,400 $465,856/€432,206. 

Lot 25. Patek Philippe Ref. 3970EG. A rare, early and well-preserved white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, 24-hours indication and certificate 1989. Estimate: CHF80,000 - 160,000. Sold for CHF292,100 $334,834/€310,648.

Lot 57. Audemars Piguet Ref. 25761 PT. A highly rare and attractive platinum minute repeating wristwatch with open skeletonized dial 1996. Estimate: CHF25,000 - 50,000. Sold for CHF254,000 $291,160/€270,129.

Lot 51. Cartier. A very fine and rare asymmetrical wristwatch, numbered 350 of a limited edition of 400 pieces with guarantee and box 1991. Estimate: CHF50,000 - 100,000. Sold for CHF254,000 $291,160/€270,129.

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