Christie's - Historic Breguet No. 3218

Christie’s to Present Historic Breguet No. 3218 at Rare Watches Geneva. One of the most important timepieces ever made by Breguet, ranking among the most significant wristwatches in history. One of only two known and first to market. Rare Watches Geneva – November 11th, 2024

Geneva — Among the treasures to be presented at the upcoming Rare Watches auction in Geneva in November, Christie’s will offer an exceptionally rare and historically important timepiece: Breguet No. 3218. This tonneau-shaped perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date and moon phases, produced in 1935, was sold to the celebrated French designer Paul Iribe, known for his significant contributions to Art Deco design, the graphic arts and even Hollywood movie sets. Iribe’s close association with Coco Chanel and his influence in design history enhance the watch’s already profound cultural significance.

A unique horological innovation in its time, for all time

The Breguet No. 3218 stands as an important milestone in the history of watchmaking. As one of only two known Breguet perpetual calendar wristwatches with a retrograde date from the pre-war era, this timepiece represents a groundbreaking moment in horological innovation. Its movement is an early example of the technical advancements that Breguet pioneered, showcasing the brand’s precision and innovation during the early 20th century. This wristwatch is among the earliest perpetual calendar models ever produced by Breguet, with features that were rare and advanced for its time.

A Masterpiece with historical and artistic context

Paul Iribe’s acquisition of this wristwatch adds further historical significance. An undisputed talent as a designer in the fields of textiles, advertising, graphics, and stage design, he was also a leading figure in the Art Deco movement. Iribe was closely associated with Coco Chanel, collaborating on a number of creative projects, including her first high jewelry collection. Their relationship was both deeply personal and professional, lasting until Iribe’s untimely death in 1935. This particular watch reflects the refined tastes of the period and embodies the artistic spirit of the era. It stands as a symbol of both Breguet’s technical prowess but also of the cultural and aesthetic zeitgeist of the time.

Significant in the watchmaking canon

The Breguet No. 3218 is one of only four known vintage retrograde perpetual calendar wristwatches across any brand. Its combination of technical complexity and cultural significance makes it one of the most important discoveries in recent years for the history of wristwatches. The technical achievement of incorporating a retrograde date and moon phases in a perpetual calendar wristwatch—particularly one from this period—places the watch in a special category within horology.

The Watch

Signed Breguet, no. 3218, ‘Quantième Perpétuel - date rétrograde, jours et mois guichets, phases de lune’, manufactured in 1935, sold to monsieur Paul Iribe on 24 may, 1935, for the sum of 10,000 francs. Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000 | US$120,000-240,000 | €110,000-210,000